Thursday, August 04, 2016
The first time that I spent time with Mauro Colagreco at his Restaurant Mirazur in Menton, France you realize it is the best of two worlds. Menton is a border town, the old customs crossing between Liguria and the Cote d’Azur literally a stone’s throw from his front door. Mauro did his marketing in Ventimiglia, about a 20 minute drive from his kitchen. There are many memories of memorable products and experiences, from the incredible fish selection, wild mushrooms, flowers to the great coffee at the Bar Canada across the street. “Capuco!”
But the young and handsome Giorgio Torazza, and his biodynamic honeys are the ones that I remembered and anytime remotely close to this stretch of coastline, I load up on his incredible product. My favorite has always been his chestnut honey, strong, dense, brooding, which I have found can be really strong-flavored for some people. Not me. Maybe my most favorite honey ever.
However on a recent visit this spring I encountered a new product of his a half-and-half mix of bio acacia honey and toasted Piedmonte hazelnuts. A small spoonful of his Miele Italiano e Crema di Nocciole will cause your eyes to involuntarily roll into the back of your head with pleasure.
I remember this market vividly in mornings with a toasted slice of Manresa Bread levain, a slathering of homemade salted butter that is topped with this Crema.
I wish I could tell you and easier way to find this product. Maybe there is. But I like to think some products are “worth a special journey.” This is worth it. —David Kinch